The story behind the Logo

The story behind the Logo

In Spring 2021 we made a rebranding with the help of designer
Markus Nowak/ supermarkt.me. We had long talks about the
story behind the brand, that has a lot to do with my family roots.
Actually NORDENHOLZ being the maiden name of my grandmother, my approach to design
is very much influenced by grandmother’s ability and love for old crafts like knitting, sewing and crafting
bobbin lace. She always worked on something and I still have the beautiful handkerchiefs with her handmade
bobbin lace border, 
that she gifted us every now and then on Christmas.
On the other side I owe almost everything to the playful creativity and sophisticated style of my mother, her love for
art and literature and her endless support and believe in me.

In Bavaria there is a very old  tradition of taxidermists creating a “Wolpertinger”, a fantasy animal, mixing body parts of several different animals. My father was a Bavarian and build up a river crayfish breeding in his retirement. When I was a child, we spent a lot of time in Bavaria. My father teached us fishing and how to catch crayfish. We spent the days in nature and I’m very thankful for this experience.
Sometimes we visited taxidermists, which is common on the countryside, as they prepare the dead animals of hunters and
fishermen/women and I was fascinated by these rather peculiar figures.

Combining the roots of my mother, her grandparents working with wool and leather, and my father,
being fascinated by crayfish and starting a farm of river crayfish in Bavaria, the logo shows a combination of a sheep and a river crayfish.


A conversation with Anna Wendt, film producer

Ein Gespräch mit Anna Wendt, Filmproduzentin

Aufgewachsen im Berlin der 80er Jahre, die Arbeit in einer Männerdomäne und ein ambivalenter Feminismus

(English Translation see below)

Als ich Anna das erste Mal treffe, verbindet uns sofort die gemeinsame Sorge um die pflegebedürftige Mutter. Zu diesem Zeitpunkt waren wir beide intensiv damit beschäftigt, die Pflege zu organisieren, konfrontiert mit Demenz in all seinen Facetten, Bürokratie mit Krankenkassen und Behörden, absurden Alltagssituationen und einer emotionalen Erschöpfung. Wir reden über Verantwortung und Trauer, Schuldgefühle und den Kampf nicht nur für die Mutter, auch um die eigene Existenz.

Anna ist Berlinerin.
„Ich bin in Berlin-Charlottenburg aufgewachsen, direkt am Stuttgarter Platz. Ein geschichtsträchtiger Ort: nach dem Krieg florierte dort der Schwarzhandel, Herta Heuwer hat ums Eck die erste Currywurst verkauft, die K1* zog ein und machte ihr berühmtes Nacktfoto, später gab es ein Baghwan Café. Und, es war auch das Rotlichtmilieu mit Topless Bars und Puffs. Sexualität wurde sehr freizügig gelebt, antiautoritäre Erziehung war normal, da wuchs ich nicht gerade geschützt auf.“

Geboren 1975 im ehemaligen West-Berlin, beide Eltern sind Teil der antibürgerlichen Bewegung, aus den Engen der eigenen Familien nach Berlin geflohen, der Vater der Bundeswehr entwischt, bauen sie sich hier ihr neues, freies Leben auf. Die Eltern trennen sich, als Anna gerade 6 Jahre alt ist. Sie lebt von da an bei der Mutter, die emanzipiert und selbstbewusst lieber alleine lebt, als sich einem Mann anzupassen.

Als Heranwachsende erfährt Anna früh den `Lolita Effekt´. Der Körper verändert sich, doch Anna definiert sich als Tom-Boy und möchte die Freiheit und Ungezwungenheit der gleichaltrigen Jungs leben, die weniger Aufmerksamkeit bekommen. Annas Aussehen wird vermeintlich wichtig. Sie erfährt viel Aufmerksamkeit von Männern, der sie sich nicht gewachsen fühlt.
„Für mich war Sexualität von Anfang an überfordernd. Noch nicht wissen was ’richtig‘ Küssen ist oder noch nicht mit einem Jungen schlafen zu wollen, war damals ein Grund als komisch zu gelten. Und schon früh wurde meine Verspieltheit, mein Lächeln oder interessiertes Zuhören, mit flirten, Zuneigung und Aufforderung verwechselt. Als ich dann damit aufgehört habe, galt ich als eingebildet und arrogant. Das war anstrengend.“ Anna schildert sich selbst als chamäleonartig, die sich jeder Situation anpassen konnte und trotzdem wollte sie unbedingt anders sein,
bloß nicht „normal“.
Ich habe komisch und verkrampft versucht passend, dabei aber unbedingt individuell zu sein. Als Trennungskind, ‚Berliner Schlüsselkind‘, war ich dazu viel allein und musste früh erwachsen werden.“

Erst die MeToo Bewegung führt ihr vor Augen, dass das, was auch sie immer wieder erleben musste, Grenzüberschreitungen waren.
Es ist eine lange Entwicklung, bis sie auch ihre eigenen Wünsche definieren kann. Dabei hilft ihr vor allem die Arbeit mit der Körpertherapeutin Susanne Kukies, Natur, viel Bewegung und der kreative Ausgleich: fotografieren, schreiben, malen und goldschmieden.
Sie sieht sich früher als Vaterkind, vermisst ihn und orientierte sich an ihm.
„Damals war er in meinen Augen der Erfolgreiche, der Versorger, der, der es geschafft hat.“
Die oft zu laute, zu große Zustimmung und Unterstützung der Mutter sieht sie immer kritisch und sehnt sich nach einer Bestätigung des Vaters, der meist eher unbeeindruckt ist.

„Die Mutter machte mich zum Genie, der Vater bemerkte mich kaum.“
Es scheint schwer, eine Balance zu finden. Anna will alles perfekt machen, um einerseits der Vorstellung der Mutter zu entsprechen und andererseits vom Vater gesehen zu werden.
„Meine Mutter wollte mich stark machen und ich hab mich mehr nach Trost gesehnt. Für mich war als Jugendliche alles so extrem schwarz oder weiß, keine Grautöne. Ich wurde mit 12 Mal in einer Radiosendung gefragt ob ich schon auf Jungs stehe und was ich später mal werden will. Meine Antwort: Ich muss auf jeden Fall Karriere machen, weil ich ansonsten auf der Straße lande oder als Prostituierte ende.“
Als sie als Erwachsene nochmals die Aufnahme hört, wird ihr das schwarz-weiß Denken bewusst, der ständige Versuch perfekt zu sein, die Strenge sich selbst gegenüber.
Der Tod der Mutter, der große Verlust und die tiefe Trauer, eröffnen ihr neue Perspektiven. Ihr wird deutlich, wie wichtig und stark die Mutter als Frau war und ein wundervolles Vorbild, dass sie die, wenn auch sehr laute und bunte, Konstante für Annas Leben bildete.
„Ich wünschte, ich hätte ihr das noch sagen können.“

Der Weg in die Filmbranche scheint in die Wiege gelegt. Ihr Mutter arbeitet als Maskenbildnerin für den Sender Freies Berlin und nimmt die Tochter mit auf Sets. Der Sender wird Annas zweites Zuhause und sie beobachtet die Stars in der Maske.
Der Vater ist erst Kameramann, dann gründet er seine eigene Produktions-Firma:
„Die eigene Firma meines Vaters hat mich als Kind sehr beeindruckt. Der eigene Laden, wenn er sagte: ich gehe in die Firma. Das fand ich cool.“
Nach der Schule zieht es Anna erst in viele unterschiedliche Richtungen. Sie möchte alles andere machen, nur nicht in die Fußstapfen der Eltern. Sie begeistert sich für Fotografie, Kunst und klassischen Gesang. Diplomatie findet sie spannend – alle paar Monate begeistert sie eine neue Idee.
Eine Agentin möchte sie als Schauspielerin vermitteln. Sie macht Fotos mit Jim Rakete und wird zu Castings geschickt.
„Zum damaligen Zeitpunkt hatte ich nicht genug Selbstbewusstsein für die Schauspielerei. Das war missverständlich. Mein äußeres Erscheinungsbild und Auftreten im privaten Raum stand im Gegensatz zu den Castings, da hab mich hingesetzt, die Hände unter die Schenkel und war komplett paralysiert.“

Inspiration findet Anna durch ihre Freundinnen und oft auch durch Musikerinnen wie Patti Smith, die sie unter anderem mit ihrem „Advice to the Young“ stark beeindruckt hat, Florence Welsh und zuletzt Billie Eilish. Als Anna `Ocean Eyes´ das erste Mal hört, ist sie in den Bann gezogen.
„Ich habe das Internet durchsucht, alle Interviews und Dokus über Billie Eilish angesehen. Irgendetwas hat sie in mir ausgelöst.“
Es sind diese Selbstzweifel und die Verlorenheit, die Anna von sich als junger Frau wiedererkennt und der Schmerz als Außenstehende zu sehen, wie ein Mensch, mit so viel Talent, sich selbst so in Frage stellen kann.

„Es gibt diesen buddhistischen Gedanken: Alles was du im Hier und Jetzt änderst, ändert sich sowohl in deiner Vergangenheit, als auch in deiner Zukunft. Wenn ich jetzt auf Konflikte zurückschaue, mit einem neuen Blickwinkel, der versöhnlicher ist, dann nimmt es ein Gewicht von meinen Schultern.“

Anna arbeitet in verschiedenen Jobs, beginnt eine Ausbildung zum klassischen Gesang und kommt schließlich über Umwege zu einem Job in Köln bei Endemol. Geplant waren 3 Monate, geblieben ist sie 4 Jahre. Sie übernahm die Assistenz der Aufnahmeleitung für Notruf/Hans Meiser und hatte nach kurzer Zeit eigene Projekte als Aufnahmeleiterin und Produktionsleiterin. Unterstützt wird sie von ihrer Chefin, Edda Kraft, die ihr Freiraum lässt und ihre Leistung anerkennt.
„Den Job an sich, das Organisieren, fand ich total blöd, aber er ist mir super leichtgefallen. Das Aufregende waren die unterschiedlichen Drehorte, du triffst auf Menschen und Orte, die du sonst nie getroffen oder gesehen hättest.“
Nach 4 Jahren bekommt sie einen neuen Chef, der sie autoritär einengt. Sie merkt zu diesem Zeitpunkt, daß sie keine `Angestellte´ sein kann, daß sie Freiheit braucht.
Anna verlässt Endemol, bewirbt sich an der „Hochschule für Film und Fernsehen – Konrad Wolf“  in Potsdam-Babelsberg und gründet 2006, noch während des Studiums, eine der wenigen Filmproduktionen in weiblichem Besitz: die Anna Wendt Filmproduktion. Mit ihrer Firma produziert sie seither preisgekrönte Spiel- und Dokumentarfilme, zuletzt den ARD Degeto Film `Karla, Rosalie und das Loch in der Wand´.

Die Filmbranche ist immer noch eine Männerdomäne. Hauptrollen, Regie, Drehbuch, Produktion liegen überwiegend in Männerhand. Weibliche Hauptrollen machen angeblich `keine Kasse´, Frauen sind eher Beiwerk zum Helden, 2014 fließen nur 15% der Mittel in Deutschland weiblichen Filmemacherinnen zu, Kathryn Bigelow ist bis heute die einzige weibliche Regisseurin, die einen Oskar erhielt.
2014 starteten 300 Regisseurinnen die Initiative Pro Quote Regie um gegen die Ausgrenzungsmechanismen in deutschen Produktionsstrukturen zu demonstrieren.

„Ich habe mich als Frau nie bewusst benachteiligt gefühlt, dachte, ich kann alles schaffen, wenn ich nur hart genug arbeite. Und das habe ich gemacht oder zumindest es versucht. In meinem direkten Umfeld konnte ich zwei sehr erfolgreichen Frauen über die Schulter schauen, Sabine Christiansen und Regina Ziegler. (Anm.: Regina Ziegler ist eine deutsche Filmproduzentin. 1973 gründete sie die Filmproduktionsfirma Ziegler Film. Sie hat nach eigenen Angaben etwa 500 Filmprojekte realisiert und gehört zu den erfolgreichsten Persönlichkeiten der deutschen Filmbranche. Sabine Christiansen, erfolgreiche Moderatorin, Journalistin und Produzentin, war damals die bekannteste Politikdebatte im deutschen Fernsehen.) „Trotzdem ist es hart. Die Konkurrenz ist groß und Projekte zu finanzieren sehr herausfordernd. Das gilt aber genauso auch für meine männlichen Kollegen.“
Anna würde sich eine größere Solidarität unter den Frauen wünschen. Sie gesteht sich ein, daß sie selbst nur 2 Filme mit Regisseurinnen produziert hat und es meist zwischenmenschlich herausfordernd war – oft aber auch ausgelöst durch die äußeren Umstände und fehlenden Mittel der Projekte.

Sie hat selbst die Erfahrung gemacht, als Frau belächelt und unterschätzt zu werden und auch die ein oder andere Niederlage wegstecken müssen.
Ihre eigenen hochgesteckten Ziele musste sie umwandeln, als 2011 ihr Sohn geboren wurde und parallel die Mutter immer kränker wurde. Sie war sich sicher, daß einfach alles so weiterlaufen könnte.
„Aber das ging dann doch nicht so einfach. Da war plötzlich dieser kleine Mensch, mit eigenen Bedürfnissen – nebenbei ging das für mich nicht. Und dann noch meine Mama, die mich brauchte. Ich wollte damals ganz bewusst weniger arbeiten und dann schlich sich das „nebenbei“ nach und nach doch in mein Leben. Während mein Mann arbeitet und den Kopf dafür frei hat, kümmere ich mich um unser Kind, die Wohnung, den Alltag und eben auch, nebenbei, um meinen Job. Das sind nicht die gleichen Bedingungen. ´Vielleicht gibt es auch weniger Frauen, weil sie zu viel anderes zu tun haben?“
Anna macht eine Pause.
„Aber die Produzentin lebt, macht weiter.“ Sie lacht.

Mir fällt der Satz der Regisseurin Maren Ade ein: „Für meine Generation ist es nicht cool Feministin zu sein.“
Anna ist cool. Und für mich ist sie Feministin.

* K1: Die Kommune I war eine politisch motivierte Wohngemeinschaft in der Bundesrepublik Deutschland. Sie wurde am 1. Januar 1967 in West-Berlin gegründet und löste sich im November 1969 endgültig auf. Die Kommune I entstand aus der außerparlamentarischen Opposition der Studentenbewegung.

ENGLISH TRANSLATION:

A conversation with Anna Wendt, film producer

Growing up in Berlin in the 80s, working in a male domain and an ambivalent feminism

When I meet Anna for the first time, we immediately share a common concern for our mother, who is in need of care. At that time, we were both intensely busy organising care, confronted with dementia in all its facets, bureaucracy with health insurance companies and authorities, absurd everyday situations and an emotional exhaustion. We talk about responsibility and grief, feelings of guilt and the struggle not only for the mother, but also for their own existence.

Anna is a Berliner.

“I grew up in Berlin-Charlottenburg, right on Stuttgarter Platz. A place steeped in history: after the war, the black market flourished there, Herta Heuwer sold the first curry sausage around the corner, K1 moved in and took her famous nude photo, later there was a Baghwan Café. And, there was also the red light milieu with topless bars and brothels. Sexuality was lived very freely, anti-authoritarian upbringing was normal, so I didn’t exactly grow up protected.”

Born in 1975 in the former West Berlin, both parents are part of the anti-bourgeois movement, having fled to Berlin from the confines of their own families, the father having escaped from the army, they build their new, free life here. The parents separate when Anna is just 6 years old. From then on she lives with her mother, who, emancipated and self-confident, prefers to live alone rather than conform to a man.

As an adolescent, Anna experiences the ‘Lolita effect’ early on. The body changes, but Anna defines herself as a tom-boy and wants to live the freedom and informality of boys of the same age who get less attention. Anna’s appearance becomes supposedly important. She receives a lot of attention from men, which she does not feel up to.

“For me, sexuality was overwhelming from the beginning. Not yet knowing what ‘proper’ kissing is or not yet wanting to sleep with a boy was a reason to be considered weird back then. And early on, my playfulness, smiling or interested listening, was mistaken for flirting, affection and solicitation. Then when I stopped doing that, I was considered conceited and arrogant. It was exhausting.”
Anna describes herself as chameleon-like, who could adapt to any situation and yet she desperately wanted to be different, just not “normal”.

“I tried in an uptight and weird way to fit in, but at the same time to be absolutely individual. As a child of separation, a ‘Berlin latchkey child’, I was alone a lot and had to grow up early.”
It was only the MeToo movement that made her realise that what she too had to experience again and again was crossing boundaries.
It is a long development until she can also define her own desires. The work with body therapist Susanne Kukies, spending time in nature, lots of exercise and creative balance: photography, writing, painting and goldsmithing all helped her.
She sees herself as a father’s child in the past, misses him and oriented herself towards him.
“Back then, in my eyes, he was the successful one, the provider, the one who made it.”
She is always critical of her mother’s often too loud, too great approval and support, and longs for affirmation from her father, who is usually rather unimpressed. “The mother sees me as a genius, the father hardly noticed me.”
It seems hard to find a balance. Anna wants to do everything perfectly, on the one hand to conform to her mother’s idea and on the other hand to be seen by her father.
“My mother wanted to make me strong but I craved for comforting tenderness. For me as a teenager everything was so extremely black or white, no shades of grey. When I was 12, I was asked on a radio programme if I was into boys and what I wanted to be when I grew up. My answer: I definitely have to have a career because otherwise I’ll end up on the street or as a prostitute.”
When she listens to the recording again as an adult, she becomes aware of the black-and-white thinking, the constant attempt to be perfect, the strictness towards herself.
The death of her mother, the great loss and deep grief, open up new perspectives for her. She realises how important and strong her mother was as a woman and a wonderful role model, that she was the constant, albeit a very loud and colourful one, in Anna’s life.

“I wish I could have still told her that.”

The path to the film industry seems to have come in the cradle. Her mother works as a make-up artist for Sender Freies Berlin and takes her daughter with her on sets. The station becomes Anna’s second home and she watches the stars in make-up.
Her father is first a cameraman, then he founds his own production company:
“My father’s own company made a big impression on me as a child. His own shop, when he said: I’m going to the company. I thought that was cool.” After school, Anna is drawn in many different directions. She wants to do everything but follow in her parents’ footsteps. She is passionate about photography, art and classical singing. She finds diplomacy exciting – every few months a new idea excites her.

An agent wants to place her as an actress. She takes photos with Jim Rakete and is sent to auditions.
“At that time, I didn’t have enough self-confidence for acting. That was misunderstood. My outward appearance and demeanour in private was in contrast to the auditions, I sat down, hands under my thighs and was completely paralysed.”
Anna finds inspiration from her friends and often from musicians such as Patti Smith, who made a big impression on her with her ‘Advice to the Young’, Florence Welsh and most recently Billie Eilish. When Anna hears `Ocean Eyes’ for the first time, she is captivated.
“I searched the internet, watched all the interviews and documentaries about Billie Eilish. Something triggered her in me.”

It is this self-doubt and lostness that Anna recognises of herself as a young woman and the pain as an outsider to see how a person, with so much talent, can question herself so.

“There’s this Buddhist thought: everything you change in the here and now changes in your past as well as your future. When I look back at conflict now, with a new perspective that’s more reconciliatory, it takes a weight off my shoulders.”

Anna works in various jobs, starts training in classical singing and finally gets a job in Cologne at Endemol via detours. The plan was for 3 months, but she stayed for 4 years. She took over as assistant recording manager for Notruf/Hans Meiser and after a short time had her own projects as recording manager and production manager. She is supported by her boss, Edda Kraft, who gives her freedom and recognises her performance.
“The job itself, the organising, I found it totally stupid, but it came super easy to me. The exciting thing was the different locations, you meet people and places you would never have met or seen otherwise.”
After 4 years, she gets a new boss who is authoritarian and constricts her. She realises at this point that she cannot be an `employee’, that she needs freedom. Anna leaves Endemol, applies to the “Hochschule für Film und Fernsehen – Konrad Wolf” in Potsdam-Babelsberg and in 2006, while still a student, founds one of the few film production companies in female ownership: Anna Wendt Filmproduktion. With her company she has since produced award-winning feature films and documentaries, most recently the ARD Degeto film ‘Karla, Rosalie und das Loch in der Wand’.

The film industry is still a male domain. Leading roles, direction, screenplay, production are predominantly in male hands. Female leads supposedly `don’t make money’, women are rather accessories to the hero, in 2014 only 15% of the funding in Germany goes to female filmmakers, Kathryn Bigelow is still the only female director to receive an Oscar.
In 2014, 300 female directors launched the initiative Pro Quote Regie to demonstrate against the exclusion mechanisms in German production structures.
“I never consciously felt disadvantaged as a woman, thought I could do anything if I just worked hard enough. And that’s what I did, or at least tried to do. In my immediate environment I was able to look over the shoulders of two very successful women, Sabine Christiansen and Regina Ziegler. (Note: Regina Ziegler is a German film producer. In 1973 she founded the film production company Ziegler Film. By her own account, she has realised about 500 film projects and is one of the most successful personalities in the German film industry. Sabine Christiansen, successful presenter, journalist and producer, was the best-known political debater on German television at the time). “Still, it’s tough. The competition is fierce and financing projects is very challenging. But that’s just as true for my male colleagues.”
Anna would like to see greater solidarity among women. She admits to herself that she herself has only produced 2 films with women directors and that it was mostly challenging interpersonally – but often also triggered by the external circumstances and lack of funds of the projects.

She herself has had the experience of being ridiculed and underestimated as a woman and has also had to put up with one or two defeats.
She had to change her own ambitious goals when her son was born in 2011 and her mother became increasingly ill. She was sure that everything could just go on like this.
“But it was not so easy. Suddenly there was this little person with his own needs – I couldn’t do that on the side. And then there was my mum, who needed me. At that time, I consciously wanted to work less and then the “on the side” gradually crept into my life. While my husband works and has his head free, I take care of our child, the flat, everyday life and also, on the side, my job. These are not the same conditions. Maybe there are also fewer women because they have too much else to do?”

Anna pauses.

“But the producer is alive, carrying on.” She laughs.

The director Maren Ade’s line comes to mind, “For my generation, it’s not cool to be a feminist.”
Anna is cool. And for me, she is a feminist.

 

*Kommune 1 or K1 was the first well known german commune in the 1960s. It was founded by eight men and women from the “APO” (extra-parliamentary opposition) in Berlin in January 1967. It existed for two years and had great influence on both the development and perception of communes in Germany at the end of the sixties. The members became well known for their mixture of artistic and political provocation, their long hair and their presumed promiscuity. This cliche´ image of young, political hippies was to haunt the german commune movement for many years. One of the most famous visitors to K1 was Jimi Hendrix.

 


The shepherd of Zimmern ob Rottweil

The shepherd of Zimmern ob Rottweil

A visit.

The largest occurrence of the rare sheep breed Heidschnucke is the Lüneburg Heath, a nature reserve in northern Germany. The Lüneburg Heath Nature Park Association owns 6 herds with approx. 2200 Schnucken.
But now there are also various private breeders all over Germany.
During my research I found a breeder in southern Germany, 1 hour from my hometown Tübingen, with a view of the southern Black Forest nature park.
At the end of February I made my way to Marcel Tietze, the Heidschnucken shepherd from Zimmer ob Rottweil.
It’s still cold on the edge of the Swabian Alb, everything brown-gray from the snow that has just melted.
I meet Marcel Tietze and his wife at the leased sheepfold on the outskirts of Zimmern.
We got to know each other on Instagram – sometimes social media is really useful.
Mr. Tietze immediately agreed to my request for a visit and said that he is always happy when he can talk about his work with the animals.

Tietze is a full-time carpenter.
As a child he often visited the shepherd in the neighboring village, who also had 2 heather sheep in his large herd.
“The horns, the gray hair, I thought they were cool. They are just not normal and I like what is not normal. “
Then 10 years ago he decided to buy Heidschnucken himself. He started with 3 gray-horned Heidschnucken, now there are 42 and a black head sheep. His goal is at least one herd of 100 to be able to work on all nature reserves in the area.
Even with `only´ 42 sheep, Tietze has a lot of work to do. But the advantage is that the Heidschnucke is an original sheep, that is, it is not overbred and therefore very robust and less susceptible to diseases. In addition, the Schnucke is very frugal. Even the barren soil on a former military training area is used well by the animals. Tietze sees his work mainly as landscaping. There is little money to be made with the Heidschnucke.
The hair of the Schnucke is too strong to make wool from it, even felting is difficult.
For thin wool, such as merino sheep from Australia, there is no climate in Germany.

A few days ago the sheep were shorn and the wool was given away for free.
The meat content of the Schnucke is low, in contrast to other highly bred sheep breeds, some of which have been bred so broad that they can no longer stand up on their own if they land on their backs.
However, the meat of the Schnucke is of very high quality. It has a special wild-like taste, it  tastes less strong like sheep than the lamb of other sheep breeds and is very lean and rich in protein. Heidschnucke is a specialty in the slow food kitchen.
The free range makes the lamb a perfect organic product.

We meet the Heidschnucken in the sheep pen, where they spend the winter. Theoretically, the heather with its thick fur could stay outside in snow and cold, but this has already unsettled many worried residents. Tietze therefore prefers to forego the difficult discussions and leaves the chicks in the barn for the winter.
“Everyone crows for species-appropriate animal husbandry, but nobody is aware of what that actually means.”
We quickly agree that some knowledge has been lost and a kind of alienation has taken place. The Shepherds’ Guild is critically endangered, and herds of sheep are perfect for the maintenance of natural reserve areas and an important part of a balanced ecosystem.
Especially shepherds like Tietze, with a lot of commitment and understanding for sustainability, are important and should be supported. Here, profit maximization is not the top priority, but the passion for nature and the very special original animal.
In contrast to other sheep farmers, the lambing season does not fall in the middle of winter so that the lambs can be slaughtered at Easter, but the natural rhythm is maintained. We see some very pregnant ewes and it can only be days before the first lambs are born. The male lambs are not slaughtered until the end of December, the females remain part of the herd.
“It’s not a nice day for me either when I hand over the sheep to the butcher. But that’s the run. The way to the butcher is only 10 minutes, so the animals have as little stress as possible. The butcher cuts the meat for me and I get it vacuum-packed. “
The meat can then be bought directly from Tietze.
The price is around 25-30 euros / kilo.
Dairy products, such as sheep cheese, are not produced because the Heidschnucke produces less milk than other highly bred sheep breeds and this is left to the ewes to raise the lambs.
The skins go to a small tannery in the Black Forest, where it is still tanned with alum, i.e. without any chemicals

In contrast to many larger tanneries, you get exactly the hides there,
that one brought. The traditional tanning trade is also threatened with extinction in Germany. Many skins and hides go abroad, where they are often prepared inexpensively with chemical ingredients under poor conditions. In this case, tracing back to the animal is usually no longer possible. Since the sale of the skins does not bring much profit, some would perhaps forego tanning.
“I think the idea of ​​slaughtering the animal and throwing half away would be terrible.” Ms. Tietze confirms my approach to using the fur.
Tietze sums up his idealism perfectly in one sentence:
“At the end you don’t earn a lot, but I like to do it.”
Finally, we visit one of the meadows, where all kinds of herbs and wild plants will soon grow. And then it will be time to send the Heidschnucken back to work.
An inspiring afternoon with the shepherd of Zimmern ob Rottweil.

photo: Theresa Schorer, Agnes Schorer
march 2021


 


The Remnant Project

THE REMNANT PROJECT

If there is something positive about the year 2020, then it is taking the time
to develop small projects and collaborations.
The Remnant Project is a collaboration with Christina Klessmann and it is all about the fabric and fur remnants
from former Agnes Nordenholz productions.
Christina cut the fabric pieces in small stripes and created new handwoven textiles out of them,
combining them with linen thread.
We created 11 soulful products out of this.

The 3 bucket bags are combining the handwoven textile with remnants of sheep-fur.
Small leftover pieces of fur were sewn together and combined with leather and the handwoven textiles.

Working with the remnants, the cut offs, the leftovers is emphasizing
the slow luxury concept of Agnes Nordenholz.
Slow luxury means appreciating the material and our ressources and creating one of a kind pieces rather
than industrial mass production.
Making these products involved a lot of handwork and it is this time and slowness of the
process, that makes these products soulful.
Each piece tells a story.

The details show the beautiful irregularities of the different length of the fabric stripes cut off the remnants.

Visit the studio of Christina Klessmann.

The 5 plaids

Nordenholz x Klessmann

handwoven plaid, wool and linen combination

THE 5 PLAIDS

In a collaboration with the Studio Klessmann from Berlin, I developed 5 handwoven plaids, each of them unique and one of a kind.
The plaids are inspired by the materials, textures and colors of my handbags collection.
Especially Linen, Wool and the warm tone of the brass locks and the vegetable tanned leather gave the main color inspiration.
All plaids have a repeating stripe pattern, that is once in a while interrupted by a small stripe or single thread in a different color.

These `disruptors´ should emphasize the handmade character of the shawls.
In the Japanese aesthetic concept Wabi Sabi, imperfections are worshiped as true beauty.

The plaids are made in a combination of Italian wool and Swedish linen, perfect for a summer evening or a walk at the seaside.
With the size of the plaid you can wrap yourself inside or throw it over your shoulder and show the luxurious elegance of the plaid.

I met Christina Klessmann over a year ago by chance, as I was selling leftover fabrics in my studio, and she bought some of them for her work.
We stayed in contact over social media and I was intrigued by the beauty and the process of the hand loom weaving.
I visited her at her atelier in Berlin Charlottenburg and the more I saw about this technique, the more I was fascinated.
It seems a very anachronistic craft, especially in a time, when everything has to be fast and the price as low as possible.
But it is craftsmanship in its purest form. The slowness and the accurateness of the process make it an authentic product,
a highly precious product with a soul.

About Christina:

Christina Klessmann, born in Berlin, studied textile design at the University of Art in Berlin and at the  Institute Français de la Mode Paris, where she gained her diploma in 1997.
She worked 12 years as an artistic assistant at the Institute for Textile- und Fashiondesign at the University of Art Berlin. After her apprenticeship in hand-loom weaving, she opened her own studio 2013 in Berlin Charlottenburg.

http://www.christinaklessmann.de
Foto Christina copyright: Sarah Winborn

The Plaid

Choose Nature

Choose Nature

choose nature

When I started AGNES NORDENHOLZ in 2015 I knew it would be about changing something. Being in the fashion industry for a while, I felt less and less attracted by fashion and didn´t feel the joy and excitement anymore, that once made me start studying fashion design.

Fashion has changed in the last 30 years and turned into a race of following always new trends, consume goods with a very short life cycle for less and less money.
Globalization led often to a production chain that is built on low minimum wage production countries and production facilities with less social and environmental standards.
Clothing is part of our culture, it is about craftsmanship, heritage and our identity. Our clothing communicates information about us, our society,
our culture and our values.
You can express joy or grief, modesty or playfulness, rebellion or conformity.
But you make a choice and you communicate.
What is the content of communication, if we wear clothing, that is produced under conditions, that we wouldn´t accept for ourselves, that is made of materials, that harm the environment and that have a quality, that are not made for a long last?What is the content of communication, when we buy clothing, just because it is so cheap, that it won´t hurt, if we throw it away, maybe even without wearing it? Fast Fashion today is like a drug. Driven by the constant need for more, you stay hungry and nevertheless, you feel empty.

The intention of my work, is to produce soulful products. And that takes time.

What does that mean?

AGNES NORDENHOLZ is committed to sustainability and slowness.

Production with social and ethical high standards using materials and techniques,
that are the best for the environment and offer high durability.
The design is meant to develop products, that stay for a long time, rather then seasonal trends.
That is why AGNES NORDENHOLZ is producing in a slow pace, all year long
instead of following the rush of the traditional fashion calendar.

CHOOSE NATURE

I decided to use only natural materials for my products, as they are biodegradable and long lasting.
The main materials are Leather, Wool and Linen.
The materials come from European productions, that have  a high quality standard and the highest environmental and animal welfare requirements.

WHY LEATHER, WOOL AND LINEN?

One of my great-grandfathers was a merchant in the wool industry, while the other one a leather tanner and my first name is AGNES ( agnus meaning lamb in latin).
This is a pretty predetermined situation.
Leather, Wool and linen have the longest history in our culture.

LEATHER

Leather is one of the most durable and versatile materials. It is a byproduct of the food industry and is therefore sustainable from the beginning.

AGNES NORDENHOLZ works only with European tanneries with high standards of production, that use only skins from farmers with the best standards in animal welfare.

The leather is vegetable tanned, that means the tanning process is made with natural ingredients from trees, fruits or vegetables. It is the oldest and most traditional method that exists since centuries. It is a slow process, that gives the leather a special characteristic and that will gain value over time.
Vegetable-tanned leather does not contain any toxic substance and is highly tolerable for those who suffer from metal related allergies.

 

WOOL

Wool is just the best fibre in the world.
It is a renewable natural fibre, from freegrazing animals.
Wool is breathable, biodegradable,
wrinkle resistant, an active fibre that reacts to body temperature, stain resistant, easy to care, odour resistant.
Especially Merino Wool is an extremely fine fibre, that gives a soft and luxuriously gentle feel on your skin.

Due to the high quality wool is also the most recycled and reused fibre.

LINEN

Linen is one of the oldest fibers used in human culture.
It is made from the Flax plant which is a very undemanding plant, growing even in dry land and needs much less water and pesticides for growing then the
`Thirsty Cotton´. Flax agriculture doesn´t allow monoculture, instead needs a crop rotation system to get best results.
Linen is a strong fibre, it is cooling and absorbent and dries much faster than Cotton. It has antibacterial properties and is anti-allergic.
Especially in hot and humid weather it gives coolness and freshness. Due to the ingredients of the fibre, it has a natural silky shine. The oldest clothing made of Linen goes back to 4000 b.C. and was found in an egyptian grave.
Since many years I work with traditional Linen manufacturers from Austria and Ireland.


Grey Friends

Grey Friends – making of

`Grey Friend and The Hunter´are the first styles of the slow-luxury accessories line of AGNES NORDENHOLZ.
The fur comes from an very rare old german sheep breed, the `Heidschnucke of Lüneburger Heath´.
While growing up, the sheep develop the typical grey fur, with shades of white and brown.
Each piece is therefor unique through the natural variation of coloring.
The Lüneburger Heath is a historic cultural landscape in the northern part of Germany.
Since centuries the Heidschnucke helps to keep the heath cllear through grazing.
It is therefor important to maintain the cultural heritage and the ecological system.

Each hide is handselected and cut by hand.
When the bags return from the manufacturer, the grooming starts in the atelier of AGNES NORDENHOLZ.
Each bag gets a `haircut´by hand and the fur will be brushed for a long time to get all hair in the right direction.
The bags come along with a little beard brush, made of pearwood and boar hair, from a traditional brushmaker from Germany.
Brushing the fur not only straightens the hair, but has a calming and meditative effect.


Making of

Artisanal – making of

The `Artisanal Bomber´ is the first style of the Artisanal Edition.

It is made of vegetable tanned leather from a traditional tannery from Germany.

The leather gets handpainted and handstitched with traditional saddlestich, using real linen thread from France.

Each bag is unique and one of a kind.


Artisanal – Making of

Artisanal – making of

The Artisanal Edition:

Nothing is permanent
Nothing is finished
Nothing is perfect

To further pursue the path leading back to the roots, Agnes went to the Mugello in Tuscany, to learn the traditional techniques of leather goods making from an Italian master.

The Artisanal Edition is a collection of one of a kind pieces, made by hand in the atelier of AGNES NORDENHOLZ in Berlin, using the traditional saddlestich technique. Only vegetable tanned leather from the best tanneries in Germany and Italy are used, showing the typical wrinkles and little imperfections, tanned according to a tradition, that dates back centuries.

The leather has a natural tone and will develop a beautiful patina with time. Or it is colored without any chemical finishes, showing a naturalness, that only leather without covering can show.